March 30th Arles to Salon de Provence

Unbelievable how just a few kilometres and suddenly the whole feel has changed, the beauty of Provence. As a truck drove past carrying it's load of oregano the smells and sights of Provence intoxicate you. Could sound overdramatic but it really is one of our favourite places in the world. Coffee stop in Fontvielle, a stunning unspoilt village just ten km, if that, from Arles. Would have looked for a place to stay there if we had known. The pretty villages continued with lunch stop at Maussanne-les-Alpinnes. Gentle rolling countryside, laden with olive groves and flanked to the north by granite mountains (there I go again!) But truly a lovely days cycling. Night in Selon falling asleep to the sound of someone gaming next door - bet you thought I was going to say the sound of cicadas, that's where the romantic talk ends.

Cafe Terrace at Night

March 29th Aigues Mort to Arles

After a long very comfy sleep we cycled a very flat route with very little in the way of villages to Arles. Just a coffee along the route to break the monotony. The Camargue is an unusual place, but I personally won't be returning. Arles was much quieter than last time, we had a walk about in the evening and did at least find the yellow cafe this time.

March 28th Sete to Aigues Morts

Not the most attractive coast this, and to be honest probably continues to be my least favourite part of France. Not terribly friendly even in this quiet season and boring cycling. Dry day at least as it looks like conditions not so good in rest of France. Eventually arrived after a couple of detours in Aigues Morts which both of us remember as prettier than it seems this time. Anyway in an hotel a bit out of town so not too big a problem. Super U shop and heading for an early night again. Off to Arles tomorrow,last day of retracing steps,then into Provence. Woop!!!

March 27th Beziers to Sete

Should have been an easy ride this. Initially fine along the Canal de midi to Agde. Following in old tracks, no probs. Lunch stop at Agde. Then should have followed my instincts and gone down the road I remembered, unfortunately followed a different sign and in order to avoid big road we ended up in Cap d'Agde. A jungle of holiday apartments that we just couldn't get out of,Truman story came to mind. Thankfully office de tourism open and she pointed us in right direction, where we had been 1.5hrs earlier!!!! Eventually got to Sete to Christine's air b and b. Very welcoming. Her first visitors. After shower and pasta, theme here,we went for a walk into Sete itself. Quite a treck. Worth it though as they had a festival of boats, tall ships, in the lovely port of Sete. Coffee,then walk back and early night.

March 26th Millau to Beziers on the train.

Hottest day yet ironically, which made me feel more of a wimp as we hung about waiting for the 13.30 train. Millau even prettier in the sunshine. As we left on the train we could see just how hilly it was so then felt a little less of a wimp. One hour and 40 mins later we arrived at Beziers. Seriously worry how people in wheel chairs or reduced mobility would manage at the station, we had to carry the bikes down and then up a set of stairs. We then found our air b and b. Beautiful central apartment, very quirky and classy. Quick shower and pasta then out to explore a beautiful city. Lovely evening, then back to meet Sinone the host of the apartment. Lovely young lady. 

March 25th - Good Friday.

Pont de salars to Millau


Good night's sleep after a couple of beers in the delightful and kitsch hotel des voyageurs. Woke to the cold cloudy day forecast. We have booked a hotel in Millau but on further examination of maps/terrain routes on the tablet Google maps I have become increasingly anxious that we are heading into a zone that the only way out of is at some point a 1:10 cycle for at least 10 km. I know my limitations..........so with only a little persuasion required we have decided to utilise a train from Millau, the last opportunity to do so. 

After decision made off we set. 3km cycle up out off pont de salars and into increasingly inclement weather, past the lac de pateloup, which on a sunny day would be stunning. Sleet falling after 15 km we stopped for coffee at Sales Curran. Onward, feeling pretty cold we cycled steadily upwards, which did warm us up, into the cloud line then a steep descent, which cooled us back down, to St Beauzely where Dave took a photo of the boars head, probably to use as a photo description of me. Another 3km uphill climb then along to the road down into Millau. Not a pleasant descent but better than the road to Rodez.

Tickets out of here!!!

WHEN WILL KATH START EATING BACON AGAIN???!!

We stopped for a coffee in small bar, served by a quiet, gently spoken French woman....then found our porky friend , hanging on the wall!!!!

March 24th 2016

A very quiet nights sleep in the countryside saw us awakened to a lovely breakfast and day, care of Bernard. With the view complete with small red deer we set off on the road again. A delightful stop in Marcillac vallon which saw us stop for deux noussetes at a cafe that wasn't a cafe at all but an epicerie selling noussetes, the nut kind, but which ended up with us having two coffees and mama's cake for nothing with a purchase of said noussetes and all round amusement. We then cycled through a beautiful valley with a steady rise up to Rodez.

Now if this blog does anything it will prevent any cyclist ever setting a wheel inside this city! A cyclists nightmare! Everyone seemed intent on cutting us up. Being a part of the Tour de France I feel I need to check whether this is where historically urine has been thrown at participants. I feel that it could not have been due to discord re potential drug doping but just a general dislike of cyclists in general. Truly a city lacking in any normal bonne de vivre with regard those in two wheels. 

After a sharp exit we astonishingly quickly got back into calm countryside and made our way steadily up hill to pont de salars. A nice village with the lovely Hotel de voyageurs, where we are to spend the night.

March 23rd 2016 Great nights sleep in a great air b and b. Lovely Anne saw us off down a horrid red route just for a few km, the only negative of the day. Shaking as we went through a tunnel on said road. Needed the coffee at the bottom! There followed a lovely (though hilly again at times) cycle of about 50km again through lovely countryside, dotted with beautiful villages and very posh chickens fit for a bespoke chicken coop in Chervais cubas. We then arrived at saint Christophe-vallon. Had a coffee in the cactus cafe while we waited to go to our next air b and b with Bernard. Unfortunately up another big hill. The welcome was worth it! A stunning house with an amazing view and a gorgeous soft mountain dog. After a chat with Bernards son, we managed to work out a route back to the cactus cafe for a couple of beers to finish off a lovely day.

March 20th 2016 Set off from Vicky and Dave's on a cool and slightly drizzly day but that was good really as this is a hillier part of the country than we started off with last time and heat, hills and less strong legs just don't work. Nice cycle of about 50 km, including a man in a yellow van mistaking us for members of the sky team and allez'ing us along the route (Bob from the Kitshe Kafe). We arrived in Brive just as it started to rain properly, so good timing. We were pretty shattered, must have been all the coffees and birthday cake at Chervais cubas, don't think it will have been the wine and beers! Stayed in le France hotel, good except for the rolled pillows which after a fairly uncomfy night I realised we could have changed for Anglicised ones, so tired the night before I didn't notice. March 21st 2016 Spring has sprung. Woke after 12hour sleep to a beautiful day. Headed out of Brive up a hill, for 15kms!!!! Went off the heat pretty quickly. Lovely red stone buildings in this area. Lunch stop at Meyssac then a flatter ride to Puyburn for an air b and b stopover. On a farm with a few dogs whose bark was definitely bravado. A basic place but clean and very comfy single beds. Popped back into the village for a coffee but it was a Monday! Forgot about the closed activity of Mondays in France, so no coffee or anything, another early night. March 22nd 2016 Another beautiful day. Fantastic nights sleep of another 11 hours so well rested for a few more hills. First a coffee in Bretenoux with its amazing medieval square (see photos). Then flat along side the Dordogne for a while then the hills started. Quite a climb up past Château del Castenau (photo) then it turned into a plain, which was great. Lunch at Lavergne then onwards in an undulating fashion to Figeac. Coffee and larder stop then a cycle up another hill to air b and b. Then we were lost!!!! Eventually I managed to find number to ring Anne of the air b and b and luckily we were within 400metres and she came and rescued us. Yay. Gorgeous house, use of kitchen etc, really lovely. Anne appears very artistic, shall investigate in the morning when not so tired to practice la francais. 60 km today and it felt it!!!

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From the 10th March to the 20th March we stayed in Dave and Vicky's gorgeous house in Chervais Cubas in the Perigord region. Here are some images that sum up the time and words:- Chicken coop, allotment, coffees in Kitshe Kafe, beer, red wine, night in Perigeux, some painting pleine aire, yet another birthday, gorge weather, some not so gorge weather, more beer and wine, good time all round!!!!!