March 30th Arles to Salon de Provence

Unbelievable how just a few kilometres and suddenly the whole feel has changed, the beauty of Provence. As a truck drove past carrying it's load of oregano the smells and sights of Provence intoxicate you. Could sound overdramatic but it really is one of our favourite places in the world. Coffee stop in Fontvielle, a stunning unspoilt village just ten km, if that, from Arles. Would have looked for a place to stay there if we had known. The pretty villages continued with lunch stop at Maussanne-les-Alpinnes. Gentle rolling countryside, laden with olive groves and flanked to the north by granite mountains (there I go again!) But truly a lovely days cycling. Night in Selon falling asleep to the sound of someone gaming next door - bet you thought I was going to say the sound of cicadas, that's where the romantic talk ends.

Cafe Terrace at Night

March 29th Aigues Mort to Arles

After a long very comfy sleep we cycled a very flat route with very little in the way of villages to Arles. Just a coffee along the route to break the monotony. The Camargue is an unusual place, but I personally won't be returning. Arles was much quieter than last time, we had a walk about in the evening and did at least find the yellow cafe this time.

March 28th Sete to Aigues Morts

Not the most attractive coast this, and to be honest probably continues to be my least favourite part of France. Not terribly friendly even in this quiet season and boring cycling. Dry day at least as it looks like conditions not so good in rest of France. Eventually arrived after a couple of detours in Aigues Morts which both of us remember as prettier than it seems this time. Anyway in an hotel a bit out of town so not too big a problem. Super U shop and heading for an early night again. Off to Arles tomorrow,last day of retracing steps,then into Provence. Woop!!!

March 27th Beziers to Sete

Should have been an easy ride this. Initially fine along the Canal de midi to Agde. Following in old tracks, no probs. Lunch stop at Agde. Then should have followed my instincts and gone down the road I remembered, unfortunately followed a different sign and in order to avoid big road we ended up in Cap d'Agde. A jungle of holiday apartments that we just couldn't get out of,Truman story came to mind. Thankfully office de tourism open and she pointed us in right direction, where we had been 1.5hrs earlier!!!! Eventually got to Sete to Christine's air b and b. Very welcoming. Her first visitors. After shower and pasta, theme here,we went for a walk into Sete itself. Quite a treck. Worth it though as they had a festival of boats, tall ships, in the lovely port of Sete. Coffee,then walk back and early night.

March 26th Millau to Beziers on the train.

Hottest day yet ironically, which made me feel more of a wimp as we hung about waiting for the 13.30 train. Millau even prettier in the sunshine. As we left on the train we could see just how hilly it was so then felt a little less of a wimp. One hour and 40 mins later we arrived at Beziers. Seriously worry how people in wheel chairs or reduced mobility would manage at the station, we had to carry the bikes down and then up a set of stairs. We then found our air b and b. Beautiful central apartment, very quirky and classy. Quick shower and pasta then out to explore a beautiful city. Lovely evening, then back to meet Sinone the host of the apartment. Lovely young lady. 

March 25th - Good Friday.

Pont de salars to Millau


Good night's sleep after a couple of beers in the delightful and kitsch hotel des voyageurs. Woke to the cold cloudy day forecast. We have booked a hotel in Millau but on further examination of maps/terrain routes on the tablet Google maps I have become increasingly anxious that we are heading into a zone that the only way out of is at some point a 1:10 cycle for at least 10 km. I know my limitations..........so with only a little persuasion required we have decided to utilise a train from Millau, the last opportunity to do so. 

After decision made off we set. 3km cycle up out off pont de salars and into increasingly inclement weather, past the lac de pateloup, which on a sunny day would be stunning. Sleet falling after 15 km we stopped for coffee at Sales Curran. Onward, feeling pretty cold we cycled steadily upwards, which did warm us up, into the cloud line then a steep descent, which cooled us back down, to St Beauzely where Dave took a photo of the boars head, probably to use as a photo description of me. Another 3km uphill climb then along to the road down into Millau. Not a pleasant descent but better than the road to Rodez.

Tickets out of here!!!

WHEN WILL KATH START EATING BACON AGAIN???!!

We stopped for a coffee in small bar, served by a quiet, gently spoken French woman....then found our porky friend , hanging on the wall!!!!