6th April. St Raphael to Mandelieu

The best coastal ride I feel I have ever done. Stunning!!!! From Agay along the Corniche de L'Esterel, despite the precipitous drops to the side, it was amazing. Cyclists seemed to outnumber cars. Which always helps. Stunning red cliffs and subsequently red coves. Just gorgeous,,all the way to Theoule. So lovely was the day weather wise the short sleeves came out, in the form of turqouise, don't stand to close to naked flame,Also top with matching socks and gloves, we were cycling towards Cannes! In Mandelieu we decided to stop and found the cheapest campsite of the tour, we so weren't expecting that!!! Got a one euro thirty five bottlemof wine to celebrate. Game of scrabble too, 3:2 by the narrowest of margins. Have worked out not to mix scrabble and alcohol, that's when Dave wins.

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7 Apr, 2016, 4:14 PM

From katharine pollard

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5th April Grimaud to Saint Raphael After the best nights sleep, disturbed only by the sound of a wild animal sniffing and snuffling round out empty sardine tins, which Dave went out to scare away, to find a cat, who came to visit us ,or the cans more like,in the morning. Windy day again today not a day to visit StTropez therefore cycled onwards and contented ourselves with a coffee facing it. The most expensive noissettes ever!!!! Again easy cycling. Found a campsite about 4km beyond St Raphael. Quite suburban we felt, near train line. Young French couple near us in a caravan. We wondered if they might be party folk. So when at 2am we heard them talking animately I wasn't surprised, and then heard a large dog moving around and then off, not too perturbed. However!!!in the morning, as I came back from bathroom, young attractive girl talking to Dave to no avail as he didn't understand and thought she was saying we were camping in wrong place. When actually it turned out there had been a BEAR!!!!! sniffing round our tent, doing a 'pipi' and then tootled off. I stopped joking then about scarey cat, ha ha!

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7 Apr, 2016, 4:14 PM

From katharine pollard

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4th April Le Lavendou to Grimaud Bit of a dull day today weather wise but good cycling. We had been quite concerned about the roads from this point along the coast but they are pretty much all cycle paths,dedicated. Another massive bonus of the day was eventually getting fuel for the trangia, now we know what to look for. Fuel for fondue in this country, (alcool a buyer) need to check for Italy what it's called there. Only bad part of the road system wasas we approached Grimaud,cycle track disappeared,started to rain so pronto found little campsite. Again pretty much the only campers. Lovely jolly chap again. Was distraught at us cooking in drizzle ( doesn't realise that's the norm in UK). Kept gesticulating we should move up to balcony. We did to eat. Dave loving his new toy, the ccoker. Really very impressive and fuel megacheap. Took a walk up to Grimaud itself, lovely atmospheric little town, obviously a rugby mad bar,with a photo of Jonny Wilkinson with le patron, hence picture of me under said photo.

Cote d'azure

March 31st Salon de Provence to Aix de Provence

After our last night in a hotel, until we stay in Nice we headed off to find some fuel for at least one of the stoves. Windy day, storm a brewing weather, the French equivalent of the Red Arrows over our heads and horrid main roads gave a surreal feel to a trip to Eclerk. My idea, (Kath) and was sooooo relieved when we found some calor gas, though no meths. Decision to go back to where we started, something we don't do often, but the road was that bad, and off we went. For 45 km into a headwind of I would say 40 miles an hour at times. Buffeting around us, with a slight incline too! Appreciated the 25 to 30 kg of ballost our paniers give to keep us steady. 

Lovely landscape again but not appreciated quite as much. Stopped for lunch quite close to Aix and managed to find a little sheltered courtyard. Though still at times like sitting in a vortex of a cyclone. Cycled into Aix, not terribly nice as a big city. Directions to campsite obtained and managed to get tent up in sheltered place. Very quiet places these campsites out of season. Luckily had room for us to play scrabble 2-0 (Kath) and book swap. Early night under canvas.1st April Aix to St Maximin-la-Ste-Baume

Rain today!!! Big hills to stay off A roads. Still big A roads had to be encountered but luckily after rain had stopped. Route de Cezanne out of Aix, potentially gorgeous, couldn't appreciate it today though. Lovely cafe owner along the way served us a coffee though she had closed and wiped down outside seats so we could have our sandwiches and lovely Office de Tourism lady made up for a wet day. Campsite found, only campers, they think we are bonkers I think. In little room as I type, cleaned out specially (slightly cell like in truth) playing scrabble again, will it be a hat-trick? YES!!!!!
April 2nd St maximin to pierrefeu

After a night listening to the loudest frogs ever, even for this country, competing with cicadas and a peep peep sound from creature unknown, with the odd gun shot we awoke sort of refreshed. We then headed off on the nicest cycle journey of the trip. Rolling countryside and lovely valleys interspersed with little villages and at the end when the map appeared to show an uphill treck, it was ten km of descent into Cures. There we found the tourist office closed! However, in a local cafe the staff were amazing, and the clientele too. With the use of waitresses Google on phone, located a campsite, she rang it then handed phone to me. As I talked to the chap saying how long we would be, the bar was laughing, I thought at my French but it turns out is my estimate of an hour and 30mins arrival time, it was as they said 25mins with a favourable wind. Booked into what appeared to be a quiet site. Popped back to pierrefou for an early beer then back for pasta tea. Early night, initially peaceful, then about 11pm a disco started in one of the caravans, till 3am. The same song it appeared, over and over again. 
April 3rd Pierrefeu to Lavendou

Surprisingly not too tired today, despite the nights events. Coffee in Pierrefeu then off down a flat valley then right towards Londe. Again what potentially could have been a climb ended up a bit of a one then a good descent down. Loads of club cyclists out today, all ages though mainly men. Very cheerful and encouraging as ever. Lovely quiet roads and as Dave had predicted, dedicated cycle tracks once on the coast. Marche in Londe, spotted bikinis, and though cloudy and a bit chilly I bought one, untried on, which is very surprising for me! Luckily later saw that it does fit, just need some French Riviera weather please. On to Lavendou and first sight of Côte D'Azur, and despite grey skies it still is nice and turqouise. Found lovely site, usually for campers and caravans but as low season has spot for us. Super friendly patron as in the resort they too seemed. Very pleasant indeed and I know once the sun appears this part of the coast will be stunning as we expected. Great Salle de television so ubiquitous game of scrabble, Dave pulled one back 3-1. And so to bed. Let's see what noises are round tonight?

March 30th Arles to Salon de Provence

Unbelievable how just a few kilometres and suddenly the whole feel has changed, the beauty of Provence. As a truck drove past carrying it's load of oregano the smells and sights of Provence intoxicate you. Could sound overdramatic but it really is one of our favourite places in the world. Coffee stop in Fontvielle, a stunning unspoilt village just ten km, if that, from Arles. Would have looked for a place to stay there if we had known. The pretty villages continued with lunch stop at Maussanne-les-Alpinnes. Gentle rolling countryside, laden with olive groves and flanked to the north by granite mountains (there I go again!) But truly a lovely days cycling. Night in Selon falling asleep to the sound of someone gaming next door - bet you thought I was going to say the sound of cicadas, that's where the romantic talk ends.

Cafe Terrace at Night

March 29th Aigues Mort to Arles

After a long very comfy sleep we cycled a very flat route with very little in the way of villages to Arles. Just a coffee along the route to break the monotony. The Camargue is an unusual place, but I personally won't be returning. Arles was much quieter than last time, we had a walk about in the evening and did at least find the yellow cafe this time.

March 28th Sete to Aigues Morts

Not the most attractive coast this, and to be honest probably continues to be my least favourite part of France. Not terribly friendly even in this quiet season and boring cycling. Dry day at least as it looks like conditions not so good in rest of France. Eventually arrived after a couple of detours in Aigues Morts which both of us remember as prettier than it seems this time. Anyway in an hotel a bit out of town so not too big a problem. Super U shop and heading for an early night again. Off to Arles tomorrow,last day of retracing steps,then into Provence. Woop!!!