Day 29 Bordeaux

Lovely city this. After reasonable nights sleep but really no better than the tent, we had as much as we could manage at breakfast, including my first tasting of nutella. OMG it tastes like the top of our favourite super U biscuits, that's going to be bought from now on and put on cheapy biscuits to emulate them!!!! Dave then went painting in a lovely little square. painting a little restaurant, lovely scene then a  white van parked right in front of him!!! Luckily the job wasn't an all dayer though they had to have a coffee in said restaurant before they went. Painting eventually finished we then moved to the side of the river itself after a coffee.  He started to paint an archway into the old town. Really stunning architecture all round.

After about an hour with his growing portfolio laid out on the new black sarong, a lady in some kind of uniform with a walkie talkie approached. I knew exactly what she was saying but played dumb, whilst Dave at one point said "but I haven't actually sold anything" but obviously in English so she didn't realise he was confessing all really. Then she spotted the 50euro card and jumped on the vital piece of evidence with relish then went onto the walkie talkie! I was packing stuff away by this time and owned up to all, the next thing three gendarmerie on bikes were there (slight overkill I felt). Dave then is like "but can I keep painting" which she acknowledged was ok. The boys in blue obviously felt the paperwork wasn't worth it and they all cycled off. 10 mins later two more passed by on Segways, I am so glad they weren't part of the initial squad or I could have laughed out loud and not be sitting here now.

Oh fun is being had all round!!!! Back to Auberge with bottle of wine and pizza!!!!! which normally would not bother me but this trip has changed everything!

in distance gendarmerie retuning to base

segwayers!!!!

Day 28 Lacanau Ville to Bordeaux 50km

Voires verts all the way, Nice easy cycle, with lunch stop in the most lovely grounds to social security building i have ever seen, into beautiful city of Bordeaux. Once established that no real camping potential found through tourist info Auberge jeunnesse which is we assume the halls of residence for the uni used as accommodation for the summer. really great place 46 euro for a double, close to the town centre, spotless with brilliant security for the bikes and in general, and breakfast and use of kitchen. As we settled into Room 101 :/ plan was made and dave went out painting.

About 8pm i followed him out to the fountain in the centre of the front of the old town where a decidedly tense dave was attempting to paint with a dentally challenged man of the street and water colour artist himself, Didier, was sat by his side, drinking, smoking, advising dave on his technique and most importantly probably deterring any potential clientele. After 10 mins of me being there, perhaps my more dismissive aura, he moved on. After which Dave then turned and said "lesson learnt, you can't be nice to everyone".

Packed up and back to Auberge, where, I have to admit to this, whilst I prepared our soup initially I was offered left over pasta in a pan which i accepted gladly, obviously very gladly, as they then offered me there left overs on the plate and I took it!!!!!! Dave looked on in astonishment and it was only as I finished i realised really what i had done!!!!!!Anyway they seemed nice young women and i was starving!

not sure why am pulling this face but lovely grounds for council workers

Day 25 Carcans plage to Lacanau de Ville via Blackpool, sorry  Lacanua de oceans!!! 15km

Lovely morning and spent it on the most amazing beach, reminded me of a really wild surf beach  in Australia. Carcans is a real surf spot with a good vibe, nice cafe's (wish we had loads of money to partake of mean looking pizzas) and though campsite was expensive it really had a nice feel (managed to avoid putting the bracelet on). Dave did a painting and a lovely French teacher came along and chatted about them, and bought a card. She lives in Warsaw but family in Chamonix so we even might see her in the winter.

After a little lunch we headed the 12 or so km to Lacanau de Oceans. I am afraid to say it was as I imagined, a bit of a characterless resort, (which actually Blackpool has) with a great beach I have to admit, but the water didn't seem as clean as up the coast and there was a bit of a haughtiness to the place, not really deserved, probably due to 50 euro price tag in the two campsites/resorts of the place!!!! These were serious wristband territory so even if they had been half the price i couldn't have stayed there so after another session on the beach, another painting done we set of inland to find cheaper. bear in mind this was now 18.30, very little eaten up to this point. 5km brought us to the L'Ermitage (or the Hills have eyes) 29 euros was quoted here and as we followed the lady down a track, luckily with other campers ahead of us we decided to turn back out of the place. So back on the track, past a resorty looking place and then eventually all the way to lacanau ville.

Really hungry by this time and the time approaching 19.30 we searched for a bed for the night, nothing appeared hopeful, but then we found a Super U and the world became a sunnier place. Dave entered the shop a bit like father Jack though uttering 'wine!!' instead of 'drink!!' and with other staples and the knowledge gained there is a campsite we headed off to said campsite. in my hungerstarved state when we were quoted 13.44 i heard that as 30.44 euro, so used to those kind of numbers, imagine when i realised  my mistake :) Unfortunately Dave so busy painting lately so lack of photos but below is photo of Dave with mug of wine and super U choccie biscuits - a happy man!!!1

Day 26 to 27 Lacanau Ville.

Stayed here two days, pretty exhausted so needed big rest really. Quiet campsite. Got chatting to lovely young couple from bedford, bless them they didn't know what had hit them when I started, having not talked to anyone other than dave for a while. Eventually let them go ha ha!!!

Day 24 Metveliet to Carcans plage 40km

Funny day today, weather dodgy and that matched the mood of the day. Another storm in the night, not as intense but lasted 2 hours so not very rested in the morning. initially bright and then clouded over. We set of to our original destination hourtin Plage  but on arrival, small place, no cash point (no money at this point) only a 5 star campsite to stay at, cloudy and threatening rain. looked for potential to wild camp, found a site that had wooden sculptures and a bit of a hippy/itinerant crowd. Felt like the slaughtered lamb as we entered. Obviously not cool enough to stay there, and felt a wee bit dodgy really for two middle ageds from Morecambe so off we went back on the road.

As it was not going to be a beach day headed inland slightly with potential to stay by a lake, arrived at ready made resort, hideous music blaring, no redeeming features whatsoever (bank though so funds replenished) so before our moods worsened further headed off again just 4km to the coast to Carcans plage, very surfy little place but the campsite (1 star!!!) costs 26 euro. These pricings are a bit odd. only one in town and bored with searching so settled up for the night. Drew the line at putting on a blue arm band. Actually a really nice site, we are used to being the only non French speaking couple on a site, but i think we are the only non German speaking. Big site so was worried about noise but on the strike of 11.00pm silence, love that german efficiency :) So well rested for Day 25

Day 22 to day 23 soulac tp Metveliet de bains 20km

Nice easy cycle after lovely quite night to Metveliet. Different to Soulac which was quite grand a more surfy fel' nice campsite within actual earshot of the beach and waves. Dave did a painting in between body surfing in lovely waves then to aldi for a 1.35 euro litre!!! bottle of wine and chilled evening.

After initial peaceful night we were woken at 1am by the biggest thunderstorm or 'orage' in french that I have aver known. In our little tent i was pretty scared and no looking to Dave for a reassuring hug as he felt that could increase the conductivity of us both with my 'bling'!!!! Would have been spectacular I am sure if we had dared stick our heads out. our friends helen and jules on the loire got it even worse we hear. I was informed by the patron that wasn't a big storm!!!! Wouldn't like to see a big orage! Another day on the beach, two more paintings done. Then new flip flops for Dave as he didn't realise that they can't be used like steel toe caps and made a hole in the bottom pushing a peg tent through!! Decision made for early birthday present and got some good sturdy ones suitable for a joiner and he is now officially 'cool' as that is what they are called :)

Back to good old aldi for the vino on special :)

Day 21Lets go surfing now, everybody's surfing now!!!!!!!
Les Mathes to Soulac sur mer on the Gironde 30km

After a late night due to some unexplainably loud conversations till 2am, initially by a family in a caravan and then as that seemed the norm by a group of teenagers, in the end I had to say something, well kind of shush in as French a way as possible, seemed to work. Then off on the lovely cycle route to Royan to catch the ferry to La Gironde. On the way had the first cofee in a bowl that we learnt about at school, but won't have one again!!! 6 euros! We have paid less for a pitch.

8km cycle to Soulac and yes the surf does not disappoint!! Couple of hours on the beach and in the waves with a couple of paintings done by Dave. Nice campsite 21 euro but worth it for its apparent tranquility (mind you last nights was promising to be that too we shall see)

Day 20 Rocheforte to Les Mathes 60km with detours

Getting out of the least inspiring place thus far proved difficult. Without actually being on the cycle route our only option was on a horrid main road so it left the only option of a cycle round the area to get back onto cycle route. luckily cool with some rain which stopped both of us overheating, with exasperation as well as the heat. When back on the route a quite pleasant cycle through some marsh lands, with big things in the water which we still haven't figured out what they were and some lovely herons and white dove type birds. Food break in a tunnel to avoid a downpour then a coffee at Marennes then onto a great voires verts through the trees but on a tarmac path all the way to Les Mathes, with some helpful advice from a couple of teachers from Northern Ireland. Great campsite, a bit pricey at 20 euro but a much needed pool and the nicest greenest pitch since the Loire Valley. After such a huge cycle in need of a small beer.

Day 19 isle de re to Rochefort 50km

We knew this was going to be a  built up ride passing back through la rochelle and down the coast. easily made our way back through la rochelle with the cycle route. Quick coffee in La rochelle and armed with maps of the route from office de tourisme easily made our way south. A painting break at a place not dissimilar to Morecambe with the tide out out dave painted a view of a small pier while I chatted to an obviously avid French rugby fan/ex truckie who persisted in singing Swing Low Sweet Chariot (thought it prudent not to mention last 6 nations). We then continued on to Rocheforte. i struggle to find anything really positive to say about the place except a very cheap and nice municipal campsite (6.36 euro) except for the number of ants at the pitch. Early night as exhausted though concerned about ants entering tent. big thunder storm in the night.

Day 18 La Rochelle to Isle de Re about 30km.

10.00 Dave off painting first thing then we are off to Isle de Re, this has been described to us as the nicest place in France, so here's hoping. Back later to tell you whether it is.

12.00 painting episode successful! that will make up for overspend :) and off we went. Cycling a bit blindly through the suburbs of La Rochelle but eventually via a market where dave celebrated his sale with a roast chicken, we got to bridge over to Isle de re. By the time we got over even though only cycling for 2 hours we had had enough, another hot day and found a municipal at St marie de Re for 16 euro and very nice it is too. Chill out on beach. it is a nice island what we have seen, very flat and with a chilled back feel.

Thankyou Madame Rousseau...I hope your friend is pleased with the painting.

Day 17 Pyruvault to LA ROCHELLE!!!!! 30km

Bit of a hangover this morning as we had a couple of halfs that turned into 4 and then turned into 5 when the barman gave us one free!!!! Havent had that happen before even in the White Cross. very laid back campsite indeed as we worked out they under charged us on the site too, only by 2 euros but still. really lovely place and smiley happy proprietors. Anyway after watching the largest campervan monstrosity next to us leave (honestly the size of a 35 seater coach), hideous, with a FST driving it (David Farren will understand that abbreviation I think) we set off on what we thought would be an easy 29km cycle. Felt hard work from the start but then realised it was 40degrees. It was flat but down canal track for about 6-8km, very bumpy so quite tedious. Wanted to get off onto road but no clue where we were so stuck with it and then thankfully became small road and nice track all the way to La Rochelle. Into the centre before we knew it, really stress free.

This is a bit of a pilgrimage as Ronnie French (Daves dad) played here in the 50s in his capacity as a jazz pianist, so concerned that it would be less than anticipated, but a really pretty city. Busy but not terribly and lots of arty things on the front. Found municipal close to old port, not bad 15euro, though the first pitch he tried to palm off on us was not a pitch at all, managed to get better one next to some young buskers from ireland and poland. Into town for the evening, a bit of a mecca for stag and hen does, even with some English hen's, but nothing too hideous noted,  and we did have a little blow out, 1 days budget on 3 pints but worth it to get one in my favourite stella glass!! Now i do get that in the White cross. Lucky i have my little stash of cash for such times :)

Day 16 Trenche to Puyravault about 40 km with detours

Gorge cycle today, a bit cloudy at times but does make it easier to cycle especially when we lose the voires verts after lunch at saint hilaine and then Dave makes his own French voires verts down dirt tracks which appeared to be completely the wrong direction but did, to his relief somewhat, get us to where we wanted to be. We saw our first proper sunflower pasture, gorgeous!!!!!! And then due to help  of the ever helpful Office de T found a lovely laid back municipal campsite for 10 euro, we have been paying 16-17 over past two nights. At present hooked up to electricity in the shower block 9thats polite for toilet) updating things :/ Dave touching up his paintings, hoping to find gallery in la Rochelle though they thin on the ground!!! haard to believe in France???!!!