September 3rd St Sat to Forcalquier via a big hill!!!! 55km

Late start but eventually got away about 11.30 from our little retreat. Initial thoughts when we first got the map of South East area was to head up the Rhine valley, less greenness to it therefore less hills. However as it would mean going back on ourselves have decided to head on through Vauclause, up to Gap then Grenoble. Sticking to valleys as much as possible though!

9km to Rustral, felt more! Stuff feeling heavy again. Stopped for coffee at a great little cafe, Cantona look alike proprietor dressed in blue and white football kit, on going to toilet realised everything was blue and white, should have got a picture, massive Marseille fan obviously. Then back on the road up and up and up to a gorgeous (thank god it was worth it) village called Viens. Then downhill and along the valley to Indigo campsite at Forcalquier. Lovely  place with chill out area with Scrabble (always a glutton for punishment, despite best score of 256 he still beat me with 276!!!!)

Leaving Don's

Off we go

Vauclouse valley

Viens

September 1st and 2nd

Feeling sluggish therefore off for a cycle!!!! Dave had gear malfunction so just off myself. 10km climb later wasn't sure it was best idea! Up onto Vauclouse plateau, took a while to plateau! Gorgeous upon the top though, so worth it. Unfortunately didn't have Dave's phone so no photos, but got good view off Mont Ventoux and the smell of lavender all over, though unfortunately we have got here after harvesting, so missing all the beautiful purples in the landscape. Different road back and really steep drops in place, felt quite vertiginous and pleased Dave wasn't with me to tell me to stay right, too scarey (don't think he would have stayed right either!!!)

More Scrabble in evening but still can't catch him! Current score 4 to Dave 2 to me (not happy :/)

2nd Sept

Cleaning house in readiness for setting off tomorrow then had a look at the town house with estate agent. Not bad little place, bright and cheerful right in centre. no outside space but potential to put terrace on the top. Good to have an idea to compare against. St Sat shut so little cycle to villars, tiny place but busy cafe scene and wifi so aiding present update. Email from company in Chamonix looking positive for work for the winter, love it when a plan comes together :-)

August 30th and 31st

Another lazy day for me. Dave went up to the top of the village and did a painting. I had two coffees  in village and messenger'd my mate Mal then headed back to read yet another book, another good one for bookclub, Breathing Lessons by the author of the Accidental Tourist. Posted cards and organised a house viewing, to suss things out for future really, contrast and compare. Later in day played return match of scrabble which turned into two as I lost again!!!!! Luckily won the next one so game on.

Into Apt on the Saturday. Not too sure that Dave would have done well in the Market. Massive, though mainly really good stalls, not much art around though. Smaller markets probably more suited if we do pursue the paperwork. Started 5th book!

August 28th and 29th

Wednesday cycled to Rousillon, known for the ochre colour of the rock. Very pretty little village. Dave painted while I read and wrote cards for home. Lovely cycling around. In the evening managed to get a very sceptical person to play scrabble, beaten!!!!! Brother John refereed from a distance!!!!

Thursday into Apt to suss out market. Obviously a bit naive of us to think we could just turn up, explained to us that 3 forms needed and 3 weeks to obtain them. Dave stayed to paint away the disappointment  while I did a shop. Noticed a property in Apt for sale for 98,000 euro, (might need to check that out further) then after little chat with my friend Helen went to supermarket where at the check out ended up chatting to a German cycling journalist called Klaus, with an artist for a wife, living close to St Sat who has interviewed Bradley and Chris Froome. He invited us for a brew at his house tomorrow and gave me the address and number. We shall see.

August 22nd La Pont de gard to Avignon

Late start as we slept till 9.25. So late in the tent. Off on smaller roads to Avignon, and due to necessity onto a very bumpy track along the Rhone which wasn't very pleasant. Avignon stunning on approach, gleaming spires. Booked into campsite (too quickly in hindsight) Next to Auberge Jeunnesse. Then headed into Avignon. Stunning city, mediaeval grandeur.  Dave did painting till 7pm and then cycled back to campsite. Very dark place and no where comfy to sit. Just ate and showered then very early, much needed, night.

August 23rd Avignon to L'Isle sur la Sorgue

Usual issue with getting out of big city, but managed to eventually onto quieter roads to L'Isle. Famous for its antique markets, beautiful town, on canals. Known as the Venice of Provence. Oldy worldy centre and heaps of character. Small cycle only really and campsite expensive at 23 euro but worth it for the place.

In evening went into village. magical place. Music playing all round, outside restaurants. Round every corner are water wheels attached to the houses. Sat in the square listening to a band for a couple of hours, just chilling. realised we haven't done enough 'just chilling' and plan to rectify that. Feel we have found a place in France that you could imagine staying for a good period of time, problem is we aren't the first!!!!! Provence really is as gorgeous as one imagines. :)

missed these out so order a bit odd :/

August 27th  Day 3 St Saturnin

Well the artist has spoken (for Helen Mainwaring)

Heaven!!!!!! We have done nothing for 3 days except cycled for a shop in Apt on Sunday, walked up to old church on the hill on Monday and pottered to the Tuesday market today. Bliss. Eaten loads and read two books, one being Behind the Scenes at the Museum by Kate Atkinson, a must for any book clubs out there. Dave has done a couple of paintings but yesterday he literally spent all day completing (with a little bit of help from me) the jigsaw he started on Sunday night. Little did i know he could get so obsessed with a jigsaw, it was like being with my brother :-)

St Saturnin les Apt is lovely little ville, nestling in the Vauclause Plateau. Nearby is Rousillon which we shall cycle to tomorrow. All just rather lovely.........

We've finally made it back to what you could call a normal life...living in a country cottage, close to a lively little village with the prospect of a few hazy summer days in Provence!!
France has been amazing, with its boulangeries and boucheries characteristic of all towns and villages along the way. I miss the anticipation of a new place in the distance with the appearance of a steeple on the horizon, typical of the north. The steeples have gradually disappeared as we've travelled further south and replaced by square towers with fancy ironwork on the top, usually with a town clock incorporated. All the planned destinations haven't disappointed, La Rochelle, St Maries De La Mer, Arles and now Saturnan Les Apt all been worth the mileage!
I plan to make the most of the week in Provence painting and selling my ever increasing gallery...too heavy to drag up to the top of the Alps! I've enjoyed the buzz from painting on the street and beach, and tried my best to communicate with those interested in my work. Most are interested in what we are doing and I'm sure are following us on the blog 'bonjour mes amis!'...Didiya, maybe an exception, living on the streets of Bordeaux, full of strong opinions of my work and its presentation, he criticised me for the square format by asking if I'd heard of the 'golden rectangle'!...I asked if he'd heard of the 'magic square!'..which didn't seem to impress him much...he then went on to try to sell some of his work to my passers by. He taught me not to be too friendly to street living winos!! Much more helpful the Spanish guy in St Marie de la Mer, he'd struggled to make a living fifteen years earlier after arriving in the town with nothing, but through getting to know the locals had established himself in his street business...his advice was that the police are always right, move on when they ask, but set up again around the corner!! I'm going to go to the local Marie and book a spot at the market in Provence.
The journey has exceeded all expectations, I've got a decent suntan, working on the six-pack but could do with bulking up a bit...probably not much more than ten stone, but feel a lot healthier. Looking forward to finding a base in the Alps...must have set up the tent about fifty times so far..and I won't miss the mozzies...it'll be good to have a new routine based around skiing...then we plan to fly back home to see family and friends. We talk about future plans of what we could do and where we may go, but we don't have anything set in stone...and I like it that way, more exciting and opportunist.
Its mid afternoon here...had a nice salad for dinner..listening to 'Paris After Midnight' tape..most of the music on the radio is 1980's...maybe have a cool beer and sit and paint for a couple of hours..hard life, but someone's got to do it.
Do I miss work?!..spoken to a couple of teachers on the way and I could see them stressing about the new term start. I liked the idea of work and the people there, but not the all consuming, planning and thinking ahead, aspect of it...not sure what I'm doing tomorrow...but that's fine!
Do I miss home?...Tuesday nights out and cycling with my bro's, cups of tea at mum's and going down to the Stone Well Tavern to listen to my dad play jazz piano...but don't miss the weather!
Had a great week with the kids, not sure if they'll have got over it yet!, and now I've turned fifty, look forward to whatever happens next, with the new life, travelling with Kath and searching for paradise!
By the way, the paintings are for sale, £50 including postage, so if you've seen something that you're interested in, drop me a line and maybe YOU could own a part of the story and help me get round the world...and stop me from losing any more weight...I treat myself to a roast chicken every time I sell a painting!! Contact me on davidjfrench@yahoo.co.UK
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